Copenhagen

It's hard to believe, but it's that time of year again. The start of our second European Christmas season was brought to life with a long weekend in the Danish capital of Copenhagen.  Six weeks before Christmas day, this city was just beginning its Christmas celebrations and was doing so in style with markets, music, lights and of course, plenty of glogg (this is a real thing- more on this later).

We started our first morning with some coffee in the Ørstedsparken, looking out over the lake in this park which provides some nature in the middle of the city.  As we explored the city, we found that it to be full of bicycles. We were later told that it was the second most bicycle friendly place in the world (although we live in the most bicycle friendly place, so it was not that impressive...).  A walking tour of the city took us to some really nice sights including Radhuspladsen (the town hall square), Stroget (main shopping street), the scenic harbour Nyhaven and the royal palace district.

In the afternoon we wandered along the edge of the main canal to probably the most recognised Danish landmark, the little mermaid statue.  Everyone who has seen the statue is quick to warn that it is very small, so were were well prepared and not at all disappointed when we saw it, despite the moderate crowd of visitors.

In the evening we explored some of the markets and shops (including the Lego shop), before heading to the Tivoli gardens.  This amusement park complex was starting its annual Christmas festivities on this weekend, and the decorations were incredible.  Every tree was brightly and colorfully lit up, and the Russian themed food hall in the centre was a standout.  The lights and water fountains show was another highlight.  The steaming cinammon, almond and raisin glogg (Danish mulled wine) helped keep us warm despite the chilly breeze.

On our second day we rented bicycles to help us get around the city a bit quicker, and started by cycling to the national museum where we saw a great exhibition about the Vikings.  After lunch, we were lucky enough to find a Christmas bockbier festival at Nyhaven.  The atmosphere was warm and busy as we sampled different types of bock bier on the water's edge, accompanied by a brass band of santa clauses.

Like many other European cities, Copenhagen's skyline has a number of church spires.  One of these is the Church of Our Saviour which we visited and climbed the stairs for a really nice view over the city.  It was incredibly windy and cold though, so we didn't spend too long up there.

We started Sunday morning with a stroll across the bridge to some markets at Ravnsborggade, which were quite disappointing.  It was a nice sunny morning though, so we walked a bit along the side of the canal before visiting the Rundetaarn (round tower) which also had a nice view over the city. By the time stopped for lunch, it was time to leave for the airport for our flight home.

Despite being very expensive, Copenhagen was a great city with a real mixture of old and modern architecture.  Learning about the history of the Danish people and the impact it has had on forming a community of caring, happy people was very interesting.

Lost in De Jordaan

Today we folowed the Lonely Plant Amsterdam book on a walking tour through the Jordaan, in the west of Amsterdam Centruum.  It was about 15 minutes on the tram from near our place at Roelof Hartplein to the Willemsstraat station.  From there we zig-zagged our way through the Jordaan district, finishing near Dam Square.  The shopping areas were a highlight of the district with markets such as the Noordermarkt out the front of the Noorderkerk which had a variety of breads, cheeses, flowers and antiques, and the Lindengracht markets which is a 1km stretch of farmer's market stalls.  We also wandered through the Negenstraatjes (Nine Streets) area which hosts upmarket accessory stores and art galleries.

Herring Hot Dog

Noorderkerk

Noordermarkt

Mushroom Stall at the Noordermarkt

Cafe Chris, in the backstreets of de Jordaan

The other significant attractions of the area are the churches.  These include the cross-shaped Noorderkerk (with the markets out the front) and the Westerkerk, which is a an early1600's building topped with an intricately decorated blue and gold crown.  The melodic chiming of the bells was a highlight, and adds the the sense of history when reading how Anne Frank mentions this same chiming in her diaries (the Anne Frank house is nearby the church).

Westerkerk

The blue crown atop the tallest spire of the Westerkerk

Canal over the Prinsengracht next to the Westerkerk

After seeing the house where the bankrupt Rembrandt died (it now houses a Japanese souvenir shop...) we made our way up to Centraal Station so I could put some more credit on my OV-chipkaart, and we decided to go via the Oude Kerk.  The 'old church' is the oldest landmark in Amsterdam, dating back to 1306.  The magnificent pipe organ watches over the tomb-stone covered floor, under which thousands of Amsterdammers were buried up until the 1800's.  The renovation which the inside of the church is undergoing does detract a bit from immersion in the experience, but it is still pretty spectacular to be in such an old building.

Rembrandt's house

Oude Kerk

One of many several metre high stained glass windows in the Oude kerk

Oude kerk's pipe orgen

One of the many tombstones which tile the floor of the church

The area outside the church is basically the red light district and although there was not much to be seen from the main street we walked along, there was a definite feeling of seediness in the area.  It seems that this is the type of area from which Amsterdam gets much of its reputation, and it was full of tourists who looked as though they came here only to experience that reputation for themselves.  Having been here for almost 5 weeks now, I can definitely say that this type of area is the exception, not the rule when it comes to this beautiful city.

Centraal Station